Spray painting is the quickest way to paint a wall or ceiling in residential and commercial painting jobs. Spray guns hired from hire centres. Type of the jet and nozzle size is related to the type of paint that you are going to apply.
SPRAY GUN OPTIONS
There are two basic types of spray gun. The paint sprayer most often sold or hired is the airless model which uses an electric pump to deliver the paint to the surface, the other type uses compressed air to apply the paint. For interior work look for an airless sprayer or a high-volume low-pressure (HVLP) air sprayer that keeps waste and overspray to a minimum.
USING A SPRAY GUN
Until you are familiar with this tool, you will find spray painting the interior of a house tricky. Everything in the room that is not being painted must be covered, or overspray will lead to a long clean-up session. Protect
It’s crucial that each spray coat be thin and even To that end, overlap your strokes a little. Keep your body parallel and your arm perpendicular to the surface. Bend your wrist as you move your arms. This
keeps the spray nozzle the same distance – about 250 mm – from the surface during the stroke. Begin moving your arm before you press the trigger, and continue to move after you release it.
1-Smooth with 180-grit abrasive paper then wash down with sugar soap and rinse then cover trim with newspaper fixed with masking tape. Secure the spray attachment to the gun then do a test-spray on a piece of cardboard.
2-Start at a corner and use cardboard as a screen to catch overspray. Hold the gun 250 mm from the wall, moving your arm rather than your wrist for even coverage. Don’t stop until the entire wall is covered to avoid patchiness.
A coat of paint can transform a tired or tatty piece of furniture into something splendid. Do your best to prepare it properly and give it an even coat.
MIND THE DRAWERS
When priming and painting drawers, coat only the fronts and their edges. Applying paint to the sides will make drawers stick in the carcoss. Coal the sides with a clear finish.
You’ll get a better result with spray paint if you rest the can in warm water for about five minutes before using The spray will come out in a finer mist for more even coverage. To spraypaint without mess, use a makeshift spray booth. All you need is a large cardboard box – the kind that fridges and ovens come in. A local shop may be able to give you one they’ve discarded.
When spraypainting the exterior of a piece of furniture, spray the corners first, aiming directly at each corner and coating both sides evenly. When spraying the inside of a cabinet, don’t spray into the corners at all. Instead, spray straight onto the flat surfaces, doing the back first, then each side.
You’ll get a more even finish on open-weave materials such as cane it you hold the spray can at an angle of roughly 45° above the surface. When painting wicker, spray first from one side, then from the other, so that you penetrate the weave as much as possible.
Reverse your instinct
When spray painting a flat surface such as a tabletop, we tend to hold the can at an angle, resulting in overspray. Always work from the near to the far side, covering the overspray as you go. If you work the other way, the overspray will leave a pebbly texture on areas already coated.
PAINTING A CHAIR
Tools Fine and medium-grade abrasive paper, paintbrushes, sanding block, tack cloth, mineral turpentine and cotton cloths.
Materials grain filler, wood filler; primer and paint.
ANTIQUING AND DISTRESSING
A coat of glaze and a few artful scratches and scuffs can turn any piece of furniture into an ‘antique’ with shabby chic flair.
Antique at home
Give the piece a base coat of satin or semi-gloss enamel and let it dry for at least a day. Then make a transparent glaze by mixing clear timber sealer or thinned varnish with a dark tinting colour. Apply the glaze and then wipe it off, taking more off the flat, exposed surfaces than the grooves and recesses. This will simulale natural wear. Experiment on timber offcuts first to be sure of the results.
Mock the ravages of time
Before antiquing a brand new piece, give it an artificial appearance of age by ‘distressing’ it. Round comers and edges by sanding or filing. Dent edges with a ball-pein hammer, and scuff flat surfaces with keys. Make Worm holes and irregular scratches with a sharp awl. When you’ve finished, sand the distressed areas to soften.
Flick on the freckles
One way to heighten the effect of glazing is to splatter some fly specks of very dark colour on the surface after wiping off the glaze. Make some of the glazing solution deeper in colour, dip a toothbrush into it and flick it over the surface. The effect varies, depending on how close you hold the brush to the surface and how quickly you move it.
Strip for wear and tear
Give a new piece a well-worn look by applying paint siripper to the base coat in irregular patches. If you want a crackling effect, wait until the paint begins to litt or bubble, then remove the stripper, leave the stripper in place longer if you want to remove the paint completely. Neutralise the stripper with water or solvent as directed, and leave to dry thoroughly before applying an antiquing glaze.
Show the cracks
There are several ways to give your antiquing project some patches of crackled paint. One of the simplest is to brush on some PVA wood glue thinned with water and let it dry thoroughly before applying a base coat of oil-based paint.